Native Noodles
Singaporean food is legendary in Southeast Asia. The country is known for its inexpensive but super delicious dishes that you can get in the hawker stalls. A lot of people recommend going to Singapore as your first stop to Southeast Asia. It is a great beginner’s introduction to the region, especially since most Singaporeans also speak English. Plus, given the country’s geographic location and history in the spice trade, Singapore is a true melting pot of different cuisines. So it’s almost certain you can find a dish you’ll enjoy!
Back in the United States, Singaporean food is a rarity. Even in New York City, where all cuisines are represented, there are only a few good places serving specifically Singaporean fare. Now there’s Native Noodles, which opened to a lot of fanfare this past February. Formerly at the closed Queens Night Market in Flushing, they now have a brick and mortar in Washington Heights. It’s far, but it’s time to make the trip.
With an unassuming storefront on Amsterdam Avenue, Native Noodles is easy to miss if you aren’t paying attention. The interior is a decent size for a New York City storefront and counter service fits its size perfectly. There are a few tables for indoor dining and one for outdoor, though more tables can be moved outside upon request. The decor is minimal and the kitchen door is propped open so you can take in the cooking aromas while sitting inside.
The menu is sizable with an intentional and unabashed modern Singaporean style that welcomes those who are new to this cuisine. Chef Amy Pryke chose noodles to be the base of her restaurant because it is the most recognizable and has hopes of expanding her menu in the future with more traditional options when diners become more familiar with Singapore cuisine.
Chili crab is iconic in Singapore. Many have made the trek to this tropical island just to find the best version of this finger food. Native Noodles tinkers around to create something more user friendly while keeping the spirit of the dish. The resulting rendition is an appetizer of four fried, fluffy and smoking hot mantou buns alongside a complementary bright red sweet, savory, and spicy dip. The buns are crispy on the outside while moist and tender on the inside. Pieces of crab lie gently on top of the crimson sauce, providing the sweet oceany goodness. I taste the crab by itself just to savor the seafood flavor and unique crabmeat texture, but the combination of the sweet yeasty buns and the tangy sauce is pleasing to the palate.
Native Noodles spins another signature Singaporean dish, laksa, into their own. What is originally a glorious dish of noodles in a spicy, curry-like broth is reinvented into something like mazemen or pasta. In an effort to accommodate takeout and delivery orders, Native Noodles turns the broth into a thicker sauce that is able to coat the thick rounded rice noodles. Supporting cast members in this dish include a choice of protein (shrimp is recommended), bean sprouts, cucumbers and crispy onions. It is attractively plated but you should definitely mix noodles, mix-ins and sauce as soon as you get it (or finish taking pictures of it), so that the sauce coats everything. The texture is smooth from the coconut shrimp-based curry sauce balanced with the toothy rice noodles. On the palate, the sweetness of the coconut milk combines with the briny shrimp flavor. It is spicy but mildly, just enough to feel a slight burn while not scaring anyone away.
The roti John sandwich is a breakfast staple in Singapore; it’s a fun insight into breakfast culture in another country, and there are more similarities than differences than one might think. One could easily see this as an Asian inflected bacon, egg and cheese sandwich. It’s a combination of fluffy scrambled eggs, ground beef, caramelized onions and cheddar cheese, laced with spicy ketchup and served on a toasted roll. The sandwich is sliced into 4 manageable appetizer sized pieces, so it’s easy to share among friends. There is an extra side of spicy ketchup for those who want more tangy spice with each bite.
For dessert, Native Noodles serves a light and fluffy pandan waffle with a side of kaya (coconut) jam. They also have a mango pudding that was silky, sweet, creamy and tangy. The desserts change based on seasonal availability so there will be lots to try.
Native Noodles is a welcome addition to the mainstream culinary scene in NYC. They bring a more casual approach to Singaporean food that has a low barrier to entry than some of the more expensive options. Hopefully those who make the trek to Washington Heights are rewarded with a new and tasty experience that could bloom into a future trip to Singapore. Who knows? Maybe even a new appreciation for the whole of Southeast Asia!
