Kuih Cafe: Ondeh Ondeh
To the uninitiated, Asian desserts can be very foreign. Often, they are far less sweet than what Western palates are used to. In addition, what can put off many Westerners is the texture of the desserts. They can be chewy, sticky and sometimes gloopy. It can be a weird experience, but once it clicks, a plethora of different scrumptious snacks and sweets will open up your world.
For those who are skeptical of jumping right in, a gradual introduction could be a better option. A suggestion would be to try the unassuming Kuih Cafe in Chinatown in NYC. It’s a mother and daughter operation that crafts delicious Malaysian treats called kuih. Kuih is found all over Southeast Asia but Kuih Cafe focuses on the Malaysian variety. They are bite sized snacks that are generally sweet but can also be savory. They can be eaten throughout the day so you don’t have to worry about spoiling your appetite! Kuih Cafe puts a twist on the traditional treats as well, allowing them to create something unique while attracting new customers.
One of my favorites is ondeh ondeh. Traditionally, it is made from rice to form a squishy ball, very similar to Japanese mochi. The rice ball is then rolled in toasted, shredded coconut. Kuih Cafe’s twist is turning the ondeh ondeh into a cookie, something very familiar to the West. The cookie is shaped like a rounded dome. Imagine a very large cherry cordial but lime green instead of the usual chocolate. The shell of the ondeh ondeh is a fine shortbread cookie, infused with the flavor of pandan leaves, which gives it the signature verdant hue. Pandan is ubiquitous in Southeast Asian desserts, and the flavor is best described as a soft melange of grassy rose, vanilla, and coconut. The pandan shortbread is on the thicker side in order to hold the tongue tantalizing treasure inside. Within its delicious walls lies Gula Melaka, a special type of palm sugar, and toasted coconut. The generous amount hidden inside would make any child blush.
Now on to the eating! I picked up the golf ball sized cookie, and noticed how delicate it was. It was eager to crumble and crack under the pressure of my thumb and forefinger. I reacted to its fragility by deftly sliding my ring finger underneath the cookie, allowing its weight to gently rest between my fingers. Once I sensed that it was safe enough to eat, I swooped in for a bite. The tender shortbread shattered into what felt like a thousand fine grains of buttery sand that melted as soon as it hit my tongue. A subtle, pleasant sweetness along with hints of floral rose and smooth vanilla dissipated as quickly as it arrived. This was only a primer of what was to come.
The golden brown filling of the Gula Melaka then coated my mouth with a rich and deep caramel flavor that never became too sweet. The molasses-like taste interlaced with fine shreds of coconut that added nuttiness and beautiful texture to this wonderfully baked good. A rush of emotion and familiarity came over me. I took a second to realize that it was not too different from a Girl Scout Samoas cookie! If the chocolate was replaced with a floral vanilla flavor, we would have an ondeh ondeh cookie. I instantly became addicted. I could not stop. I took another bite. Then another. I looked down, and suddenly there was no cookie left in my hands. I became sad. I yearned for another but I also wanted to save the rest for later. One order came with a healthy set of 6 cookies, easily demolished in one sitting. With great willpower, I was able to hold off on finishing them until… the next morning.
Kuih Cafe’s ondeh ondeh cookie is a perfect middle ground of texture and taste for those who want to venture into Southeast Asian desserts. With their weekly rotation of delicious delights, Kuih could provide a sweet segue into the East’s vast library of culinary concoctions. Even the most Western of palates could be converted. And once you go down that rabbit hole, you may never want to come back.
