Lost Bread Co.: Milk Bread
What does one think when they hear the term “white bread?” Something mundane and unremarkable, perhaps? Definitely not excitement or fun. During a morning commute, I was walking through the Union Square Greenmarket in New York City and I stumbled across Lost Bread Co. Their enticing offerings deserved more than a glance and my eyes locked on a golden loaf of milk bread.
Milk bread (or Japanese Milk Bread), called shokupan in the land of the Rising Sun, is considered the staple white bread in Japan. It is ubiquitous in many convenience stores, cafes, and bakeries, and generally fluffier and lighter than the American counterpart. Lost Bread Co. is a bakery and mill that is based out of Philadelphia. They have a brick and mortar cafe that serves their delightful delicacies but they also operate at various farmers markets in NYC. Because I love anything Japanese, I had to buy myself a loaf.
Upon returning home, I quickly retrieved the milk bread and placed it on a cutting board. At first glance, the loaf was very caramelized on the top, almost burnt even. The sides and bottom were a perfect golden brown. The way that it was baked looked like there were two loaves melded together, like two enormous dinner rolls to serve as one loaf. I was strongly tempted to rip the two halves apart, but I resisted and used a serrated knife instead.
After I cut myself a slice, I could smell the beautiful scent of butter and yeast. It was sweet and milky with a hint of light beer. The crumb was tight and it was very moist. Upon pressing on the loaf with some force, it sprung back quickly. This was the famous fluffiness that milk bread was known for. I knew I was in for a treat.
I dove in with unchecked excitement because I couldn’t wait any longer. The bread was soft and tender but heartier than any white bread that I’ve had before. Then the real flavor kicked in. I immediately noticed the flavor of the butter. It was rich, creamy, and had a milky flavor that coated your palate. I was overwhelmed with joy because I had never tasted bread with this much flavor and wonderful texture. The quality of the butter and milk was extremely high and it easily translated onto the tongue.
The flavor didn’t stop there. What was very interesting to me was that there were 3 distinct flavors from one slice of bread: the first was from the center of the bread — the buttery and milky core, the second from the golden sides of the crust and the final was from the super caramelized top. The golden sides had a very fruity, less nutty flavor from the center. The top had a very rich and deep caramelized flavor, reminiscent of a Morinaga Milk Caramel candy in Japan (Google it, you’re very welcome).
I had to have another slice…why, for science of course! This time I tried toasting it in a toaster oven. The extremely high heat from the toaster oven quickly caramelized the slice (and slightly burning other parts of it too). The toasted slice turned out to be an excellent idea! Besides it being obviously crunchy, it intensified the butter flavor, making it more akin to brown butter. The bread became more rich and nutty. If the butter flavor was subtle in the slice before, this toasted slice punched you in the face with a caramelized butter flavor. All the flavor of the milk and butter was turned up to 11 with an addition of malty, toasty richness. The sweetness was also increased, and it was wonderful.
I then tried toasting the milk bread in a pan and discovered this was the optimal preparation style, as the slow heating coaxed out the milk and butter flavor in a more gentle way. However, pan-toasting required more time and patience. You can’t have said time or patience every time, and on those occasions the toaster will absolutely suffice. In terms of shelf life, the loaf can last about a week if stored properly in a paper bag. The integrity of the butter flavor was still apparent on the 2nd day but if kept longer, I definitely would recommend toasting it to enhance the remaining flavors.
My biggest surprise for the bread came when using it for other purposes, like a sandwich. It was an excellent choice for making a sandwich or even using it for avocado toast. I even tried just eating it with jam and/or butter. But honestly, even though the milk bread added richness to my sandwiches, I didn’t think it was the best use for this magnificent baked good. Whether at room temperature or toasted, I preferred eating the bread plain and simple, without butter or anything. I think this is actually the ultimate compliment for a food, because to me, being better plain demonstrates the high quality of a given product, like this bread. I simply wanted to taste the flavor, with nothing else to get in the way. It is definitely the best milk bread I’ve ever had. In fact, I would go as far to say that this is the best bread I’ve ever had.
I would say that I’m pretty obsessed with this milk bread from Lost Bread Co. Every week I wonder if I should go buy another loaf! I definitely think about it every time I walk through Union Square, regardless of whether the Greenmarket is there or not. Now when I think of “white bread,” I think about the exciting possibilities of what that might be.
For those of you who are interested (and you should be), they are only at Union Square on Wednesdays and Fridays (I found out the hard way, so you don’t have to).
Lost Bread Co.
lostbreadco.com | @lostbreadco
Union Square Greenmarket on Wednesdays and Fridays
